| Chef/owner Chris Stoneham prepares award-winning European-Japanese cuisine in a casual, relaxed atmosphere. A simple daytime menu offers udon and tortellini bowls, pita pizzas, sandwiches and crisp salads for grazing. Evening fare goes upscale with everything from sushi to bison ribs. Call for hours. Entrées: $5.99-$29. WA, LP. Cards: D/E, IA, MC, V.
Reviewed in Jan/Feb '04 Issue of WHERE
Nestled snugly between an Aveda spa and an exclusive Asian gift boutique, Enorae Bistro is the newest kid on what is becoming a block full of excellent restaurants and bistros. Enorae, which is the brainchild of up-and-coming chef/owner Chris Stoneham, opened in April with a menu and approach that is described as contemporary and eclectic. Certainly nothing, from the decor to the menu to the casual but efficient service, is run-of-the-mill. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide light and warmth during the day and romantic shadows in the evening, both of which are enhanced by the rich, vibrant colours inside—mustard, eggplant, and a deep grey-blue. The art on the walls ranges from European bistro prints to delicate Asian etchings on rice paper, while the table settings are simple to the point of spartan. If you can, get seated in one of the booths, which make for a much more comfortable dining experience. The menu gets inspiration from all over the globe, including the Mediterranean, France and Japan. Of these, lunch options include a filling bowl of thick and chewy udon noodles served with crisp vegetables and stir-fried with your choice of a black bean or spicy Szechuan sauce. Chicken or shrimp can also be added, and the bowls are also available with tortellini instead of udon.
There are a few substantial salads that work well as a light meal, including a combination of spinach and artichoke hearts, tossed in a cheesy dressing and drizzled with crispy bacon pieces. And the ubiquitous wrap also makes an appearance on the menu, this time encompassing marinated chicken breast, veggies and soba noodles.
Evening entrées are a more formal affair, and start off with a basket of warm focaccia bread cut in small, inch-thick strips and brushed generously with garlic, olive oil and a smattering of herbs. The braised lamb shank is wonderful on a chilly night. Rich, hearty and rib-sticking, the shanks are cooked in a port-infused gravy until the meat is literally falling off the bone. Served with the most garlicky version of garlic mashed potatoes available in Winnipeg, and an assortment of perfectly prepared vegetables, it is truly a feast. Bison is quite popular on Manitoba menus, and Enorae has its own take, with ribs slow cooked in a slightly too-sweet dark beer barbecue sauce.
One must-try dessert is the velvety smooth, house-made Grand Marnier crème caramel. |